Throttle Issue

[jrubin80]

Ok so I've been having ongoing throttle issues, looking for better direction or an idea. This is for Sebeco chassis 80, built spring 2022. After nationals I installed the new version throttle body with the contactless tps sensor. Set it per the guide. When I plug in laptop, live TPS volts was still 1.0. I did fresh calibration. It is set for 4.9%-5.0% throttle at idle.

Car will not idle or run at that throttle. If I turn the idle screw to get it up to 9%, after a few minutes car will idle at 1600rpm or so. With Ben's help car and throttle worked perfect at Nationals, this started when new throttle body went on.

We've been diagnosing this off and on since April. Any ideas?

 

[Sebeco Motorsport]

Are you able to post some photos of the throttle body? I’d like to see the shaft with the TPS off, the throttle body fully closed with the idle screw out, and what the throttle body looks like when the throttle pedal is all the way full.

 

[jrubin80]

 

[Sebeco Motorsport]

I don't think there is anything physically wrong with the throttle body or the TPS. The only suggestion I could have is to re-do the setting up process step-by-step, giving extreme attention to every detail.

Whenever we've had an issue like this, where a car requires a higher TPS setting in order to idle, it's because it was set incorrectly. The older non-SHR throttle bodies were also prone to this.

I would suggest removing the TPS sensor, clicking the reset button on Haltech (Shown below), reinstalling, recalibrating, and resetting the idle/throttle stop if needed.

 

[jrubin80]

I'll run thru that again. In the past attempts I have not removed and reinstalled TPS or done Haltech reset. Just went off directions that came with the new throttle body.

 

[jrubin80]

An update for those who have this issue pop up. As I am on AEM not Haltech, I was limited in not being able to do the software reset that was suggested. Removed the Haltech TPS completely, treated it, and the shaft like a Nintendo cartridge. I also noted others that couldn't get the TPS to stay put, and removed the original 12mm length screws for 10mm long button heads. I think the longer thread may not be allowing screws to properly lock down in some cars. I also removed all slack in the blipper, as I think that could have been contributing to the throttle cable snapping issue the paddle system had previously. I then set the open and closed volts per the original guidelines and It is sitting at 3%ish throttle with the idle screw fully backed out. So it could easily be set to 5% if wanted or needed for the alternator to charge. Idling at the 3% did also prevent to normal high temps I have seen on pregrid in that last 2 minutes before release. I didn't feel the need this weekend to rush to get to pregrid last minute to keep car cool which is a plus.