Mike Stansbury
New member
Morning Everyone.
When you are servicing or replacing your master cylinders i'm going to post some steps and issues to assist you. I'll cover the original Wilwood MC as well as the replacement MC by Tilton. As always, comments are welcome. Pay it forward!
Steps to remove Master Cylinder
1. To service these you'll need to remove the front nose as well as the front crash box.
2. you will also need to remove the rivets holding the forward aluminum panel separating the crash box from the pedals (or at least the bottom half of this panel)
.... your going to do this so you can get a wrench onto the bolts holding the MC on the Wilwood pedal box. Pic 1 &2 Attached showing bolt distance to the forward Panel
3. Unhook all Brake lines and Unscrew the MC' connecting rod from the pedals. (suggest you mark the rod so you can see the amount of thread used when you put them back or mark the new MC so it will go back at the same pedal position)
4. Remove the nyloc nuts holding the mc on the pedal assembly
5. Remove the MC to rebuild or replace.
Steps to replace Wilwood MC(upgrading to the Tilton MC)
1. You may need to add 4 washers to the bolts which hold the MC to the pedal assembly ( you do this for spacing because some bolts are too long and won't allow the Tilton MC to seat flush against the pedal assembly (See Pic 3 )
2. install the mc onto the assembly and torque the nuts as specified. (also pic 3) when attaching the Aluminum AN union use a crush gasket always and tighten.. 25 ft lbs.
3. attach the threaded rod to the pedal paying attention to the marks you've set so that you get the Brake Bias set back properly (for the record.. this is set up 50/50 from the factory) you can adjust this to mechanic's discretion
4. Bleed the MC via Tilton's MC bleed video- just basically leave the nipple inlet loose and pump the pedal till fluid flows out then tighten the inlet nut.
5. Re attach the exit hardware Banjo Bolts and pressure sensors if you have those installed. (remember to use new copper crush gaskets. easily found at your local OReilly's or Napa)
6. Pop Rivet back the front panel ( this was necessary as getting a wrench on this for removal is IMPOSSIBLE for me)
6. Rebleed the system as described for a dual mc and dual bleed process
When you are servicing or replacing your master cylinders i'm going to post some steps and issues to assist you. I'll cover the original Wilwood MC as well as the replacement MC by Tilton. As always, comments are welcome. Pay it forward!
Steps to remove Master Cylinder
1. To service these you'll need to remove the front nose as well as the front crash box.
2. you will also need to remove the rivets holding the forward aluminum panel separating the crash box from the pedals (or at least the bottom half of this panel)
.... your going to do this so you can get a wrench onto the bolts holding the MC on the Wilwood pedal box. Pic 1 &2 Attached showing bolt distance to the forward Panel
3. Unhook all Brake lines and Unscrew the MC' connecting rod from the pedals. (suggest you mark the rod so you can see the amount of thread used when you put them back or mark the new MC so it will go back at the same pedal position)
4. Remove the nyloc nuts holding the mc on the pedal assembly
5. Remove the MC to rebuild or replace.
Steps to replace Wilwood MC(upgrading to the Tilton MC)
1. You may need to add 4 washers to the bolts which hold the MC to the pedal assembly ( you do this for spacing because some bolts are too long and won't allow the Tilton MC to seat flush against the pedal assembly (See Pic 3 )
2. install the mc onto the assembly and torque the nuts as specified. (also pic 3) when attaching the Aluminum AN union use a crush gasket always and tighten.. 25 ft lbs.
3. attach the threaded rod to the pedal paying attention to the marks you've set so that you get the Brake Bias set back properly (for the record.. this is set up 50/50 from the factory) you can adjust this to mechanic's discretion
4. Bleed the MC via Tilton's MC bleed video- just basically leave the nipple inlet loose and pump the pedal till fluid flows out then tighten the inlet nut.
5. Re attach the exit hardware Banjo Bolts and pressure sensors if you have those installed. (remember to use new copper crush gaskets. easily found at your local OReilly's or Napa)
6. Pop Rivet back the front panel ( this was necessary as getting a wrench on this for removal is IMPOSSIBLE for me)
6. Rebleed the system as described for a dual mc and dual bleed process
